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Pair Regains El Capitan Speed Record Print E-mail
Written by Peter Kray / MtnPressWorld.com   
Tuesday, 22 July 2008 18:11

 

Climbing records, it seems, were meant to be broken.

 

According to Expedition News, Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama set a speed record on the Nose, the most famous route on the most famous wall in the world's rock-climbing Mecca of Yosemite National Park. Their July 2 ascent shaved 2 minutes 12 seconds off the previous record set in October by the German brothers Thomas and Alexander Huber.


And so ends the latest chapter in one of the most singular competitions in the world of sports, one not sanctioned by any official body, with no judges, and whose official time was kept on a stopwatch clipped to Florine's climbing harness. Nonetheless, their attempt to set a record has set abuzz the world of climbing, and the feat astonishes even seasoned rock climbers, who typically take three days or more to climb the granite monolith, according to a July 3 story in the New York Times by Miguel Helft.
Speed competitions remain a fringe activity in the clubby world of rock climbing, and they are not welcome by everyone. Some traditionalists say climbing is an opportunity to be one with nature, more lifestyle than sport, and see competitions as little more than a sideshow.

Florine and Hirayama climbed simultaneously for most of the route, tied to one end of the same rope. The rope was always clipped through carabiners into equipment stuck in the wall, so a mistake would not necessarily mean a fatal plunge to the bottom of the cliff. But a misstep by one climber could pull the other climber off his stance and send both on long, bone-crushing falls.